Whenever curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.
The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has made the proprietors completely surprised.
“I am totally surprised,” states the proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble place achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.
This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.
In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.
It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.
It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.
Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.
It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.
“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.
In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.
This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.
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